Soo Sim is a graduate of the Royal College of Art’s MA Fashion program expressing inner feelings of uncertainty. Through designing, communicating, and collaborating with friends, he is able to alleviate some of these emotions. Soo’s work has a distinct grunge aesthetic, from leather manipulation to dark and dramatic imagery. It is from this imperfection that he finds freedom.
Soo, originally from Seoul, Korea, studied fashion for his BA at a large national university rather than a specialized school. As a result, he was required to take courses outside of the design college. Soo chose subjects related to fine art, including contemporary dance, painting, video art, and the philosophy of art. This sparked an appreciation for RCA’s approach to education, which is subtly philosophical and artistic.
“At RCA, it didn’t matter if the final outcome wasn’t a garment—What mattered was how you chose to reveal and express your own world. Because of this, every student’s way of creating was so different that competition almost didn’t exist. During my time there, I learned to find balance—sometimes embracing their philosophy, sometimes resisting it—allowing my own voice to grow stronger and more honest.” - Soo Sim
Graduate Collection
In 2022, Soo’s graduate collection, Throwness, responded to a sense of hazy nostalgia. It's the feeling of not quite belonging anywhere, like always being out of place. As Soo experienced this for a while, he began searching to understand the feeling, gradually expanding into a collection.
Throwness was inspired by uncertainties of an unknown future, a loneliness rooted in not fully understanding himself, and a sense of emotional stagnation filled with question marks. By sharing these feelings with friends, Soo sought to find others who shared similar experiences and express those emotions together. Around that time, he recorded their conversations, took notes of his random ideas or simple thoughts, and read many philosophy books.
“To me, questioning uncertainty is an act of exploring one's inner world and developing through that journey. Sometimes, it’s important to let things flow naturally through intuition, rather than forcing them into a rigid form. Before starting any project, I believe it’s crucial not to doubt your own infinite potential.” - Soo Sim
The collection features a leather jacket, tank top, trousers, groin protector, sash, and gaiters with unique spiral-shaped details constructed using a moulding technique. Soo continued the spiral shape in his pattern design, creating a hood that wraps around the body. Nylon cargo pants were mixed with layered, translucent jersey garments that feel cadet-or-aviation-inspired. In addition, Soo employed a paradoxical function of protective gear that doesn’t protect. This twist was an idea he considered on a whim with no specific message.
“For me, it’s more about self-reflection—a way of expressing who I am, with fashion simply serving as a tool in that process. Rather than making bold statements, I’m more drawn to creating layered contexts that leave room for multiple interpretations. Because of this, my work often comes across as ambiguous or undefined.” - Soo Sim
Soo’s response is refreshing; many designers and brands attach a deeper meaning to the elements of their work, often seeming superficial. He leaves room for interpretation, expanding the relationship between people and his work while reinforcing the theme of uncertainty.
“My graduation collection was about creating a community with people who shared the same sentiments and expressing that connection.” - Soo Sim
Throwness with Nikolai Ahn
Through this journey, Soo collaborated with his friend to document Throwness. Nikolai Han primarily shot photos, while Soo occasionally stepped in to shoot the video. The work is dark and pixelated; a person lying in a field blinded by a mask appears drunk and constrained. Soo and Nikolai expanded the graduate collection beyond looks by portraying existences as being 'thrown' into the world.
“Video, unlike the immediate, heavy impact that photos often have, adds another layer of complexity through subtle movements and auditory elements. It creates a multi-dimensional impact that enhances the concept in a way that a still image cannot.” - Soo Sim
The Darker Self
Grungy, black-and-white photography remains a consistent motif in Soo’s work. This adds a layer of mystery and uncertainty to his designs. As a 90s kid, Soo was always drawn to the nostalgic aesthetic of 90s analog technologies like VHS tapes and film cameras.
“I believe the low resolution and imperfect quality of these formats have the power to evoke a sense of ambiguity, sparking curiosity and pulling people deeper into that raw, unrefined sensibility.” - Soo Sim
Moreover, the common thread in all of Soo’s projects is addressing the darker side of the self. Powerful imagery helps elevate fashion in exploring this narrative.
Collaborations
Prior to attending RCA, Soo was a designer at Hyein Seo. Since then, he’s worked with them on various projects and collaborated with other labels, including Acult Studios, Æ Synctx, and KeigaKeiga.
“When we work together, I immerse myself in researching their brand, looking for common threads between our styles, and then try to bring out those shared elements in the most interesting way possible. Regardless of satisfaction with the final result, I like to see the fresh outcomes that come from blending someone else’s vision with my own are something I could never create on my own.” - Soo Sim
Soo’s ability to find commonalities between his style and a brand’s looks effortless; his art direction for Æ Synctx fuses their futuristic aesthetic with the grimy Kings Cross station, conveying a chaotic underground.
Soo is constantly craving collaborations with artists from various genres, fusing mediums and artistic visions. He is also interested in starting a label in the future, slowly exploring different ways a business could take shape, perhaps in more flexible or unconventional formats.
Through the uncertainties in life and working in fashion, Soo employs an artistic and philosophical approach to design. Collaborating and communicating with others brings reassurance, while his work leaves room for interpretation, making us question.
“I realized that uncertainty is a fear of ego and is, in fact, the first step towards freedom, and action of resistance in which we come to enjoy chaos, decide intuitively, and trust our gut.” - Soo Sim
