Fashion is an expansive universe, with various communities, professions, and niches. Within this world, retail plays a special role in curating an up-close encounter between customer and clothing. As designers contest what fashion could be, some retail spaces are taking a radical approach as well. From avant-garde installations to architectural masterpieces, certain retailers have moved beyond the traditional function of a store, embracing a more experiential and narrative-driven approach. By examining various trailblazing fashion retailers, we can better understand how these spaces shape consumer experiences and contribute to the ongoing evolution of fashion culture.
Parachute: Avant-Garde in the 1980s
In the 1980s, a store named Parachute could be found at 121 Wooster Street in SoHo, NY. Mostly black avant-garde clothing hung from pipe racks, while the concrete fitting rooms lacked mirrors and featured black rubber curtains. Like a public square, the changing rooms were intentionally placed at the store’s center to spark conversation among customers. This unique spatial experience was the brainchild of founders Harry Parnass and Nicola Pelly, an architect and fashion designer duo.
Parachute’s highly structured garments were inspired by the punk movement, the Russian constructivist design of the 1920s, and Japanese fashion and military uniforms. In 1978, Parnass and Pelly opened the first boutique on Montreal’s Crescent Street. The label expanded with stores in Toronto (1979) and SoHo (1980). At its peak, Parachute had 24 flagship stores, with their clothes available in the United States, over 200 shops in Europe, and top retailers in Australia, Hong Kong, Japan, and Singapore.
Not far from the late Parachute SoHo is the Prada Epicenter, designed in 2001 by the Office for Metropolitan Architecture. A vast curve in the store’s floor leads to the lower level, a feature called The Wave, which transforms from a product display to a venue for performances and screenings. A long path connects both sides of the boutique, with a glass display embedded in the wall, encouraging customers to view accessories while navigating the space. OMA’s design promotes exploration — of both the clothing and the architecture — creating an experience beyond shopping.
Dover Street Market: A Radical Retail Concept
While luxury department stores like Bergdorf Goodman or Harrods attract successful professionals, Dover Street Market (DSM) is a special place for fashion people. The retailer was founded by legendary designer Rei Kawakubo and her husband Adrian Joffe, with locations in London, Ginza, New York, Singapore, Beijing, Los Angeles, and Paris.
DSM is a maverick in fashion retail because of its spatial design. Each avant-garde and streetwear brand has its own installation, creating an immersive experience where a brand’s aesthetic surrounds the customer. As DSM welcomes new designers and collections, they frequently update the displays in each location. As a result, people visit DSM not just to see clothes but also to experience the ever-changing interiors.
Another retailer that cultivated a name for itself through experimental products and installations is Gentle Monster. The South Korean eyewear giant began in 2011 and now has 78 flagship stores in 13 countries. Each boutique includes massive and captivating sculptures, from robotic faces, a sleeping human, and even bison. This progressive approach has made Gentle Monster stores a spectacle. As customers walk from one room to another, they’re drawn to stop and look at the installation, merging a shopping and gallery experience.
ADER Error: Curated Disorder
In South Korea, ADER Error is also taking a radical stance on retail. The fashion brand’s ethos is finding beauty in imperfections. ADER Error’s team is mysteriously anonymous and comes from different fields, including advertising, architecture, consulting, food, fashion, graphic design, illustration, interior design, and trade. Likewise, they create a playful assemblage of mismatched looks, constructing common garments in untraditional ways. Bold colors, cuts, and graphics are staples of the brand.
This curated disorder and cross-disciplinary collective are reflected in the ADER stores, which feature dramatic designs. Smaller ADER Plug Shops have colorful carpets, rocky walls and/or tables, and contrasting, metal shelves.
The larger locations, called ADER Spaces, feature space-like installations. I visited the Seongsu showroom and walked through a series of rooms, feeling immersed in an alternative reality. A metal alien vehicle floated above a body of water; an astronaut hung from the ceiling. It felt like a journey as I navigated the space to ultimately discover their clothes at the end. The Seongsu location was recently redesigned with new installations, transforming the shopping experience.
ENG Concept Store: A Hub in Shanghai and Chengdu
Another retailer pushing the relationship between people and fashion is ENG Concept Store, located in China. The ENG acronym stands for Explore, Navigate, Generate, which they aim to do through physical and digital spaces. The clothing inside is edgy yet elevated, elegant but with a twist, including brands like Didu, Paolina Russo, Charlie Constantinou, Greg Ross, and Rombaut. ENG redesigns its spaces to host events with brands, extending the relationship between visitors and fashion. In October, they installed a colossal cat couch in collaboration with KNWLS.
“For fashion—especially the kind we do—space plays a major role. It helps customers understand the essence and DNA of the brands we carry and can make them feel part of a community. It’s almost like packaging; it has to be deeply connected to the products.” - Laura Darmon, buyer director & business director at ENG.
Darmon believes that space is almost as important as the garments themselves. You first experience the energy and atmosphere, and that connection can be emotional. A space has its own scent, visuals, energy, and curation. Through this perspective, ENG generates curiosity and a connection to the space rather than being just another retail store placed in a city without context or meaning.
In fact, the ENG store designs are deeply connected to the city, its culture, and unique identity. For example, ENG’s Shanghai space features a futuristic yet minimalistic interior, while in Chengdu—a city known for its mountains, traditional culture, and cuisine—ENG incorporates wooden blinds, aluminum elements, and cultural references. The layout of the space reflects the clothing, but the overall design is inspired by the city and its audience.
RADD LOUNGE: Shibuya’s Essence as Retail Space
In the energetic district of Shibuya, Tokyo, RADD LOUNGE is a quirky boutique offering some of the most unique and vibrant clothing selections. From spiky rubber bags and hypnotic alien motifs to Aphex Twin album covers on slippers, RADD is dedicated to presenting a new wave of Japanese fashion while honoring the enthusiasm of 2000s Japanese street culture.
The store’s interior, a futuristic parallel universe, was envisioned by artist Kim Laughton and constructed by Hirotoshi Kimura, who has worked with Comme des Garçons and GR8. RADD’s signature design features glowing light-green panel floors and mirrored surfaces reflecting the store’s graphic-heavy inventory.
“In particular, we want our customers to enjoy shopping purely because they don't need any knowledge or expertise.” - Irikita Akihiro, founder of RADD LOUNGE
RADD LOUNGE champions niche and emerging designers like NUTEMPEROR and Craig Morrison, giving them a platform while curating an eclectic selection that attracts customers and celebrities alike. The store also documents customer outfits on Instagram and a dedicated webpage, showcasing real fashion culture beyond traditional fashion weeks.
“I know that as a retailer, it is easier to make money if I categorize my products and put them out into the world. But as with music, once something is categorized into a genre, it is thrown out into the sea of commercialism.” - Irikita Akihiro
This authentic approach makes shopping at RADD an exciting experience; you can always expect to find something unexpected.
Conclusion
In an era of instant online shopping, retailers must challenge the conventional shopping experience. Examples like Parachute, Prada, and Dover Street Market have redefined what a store can be, crafting spaces that make customers think about clothing beyond its material function. Now, Gentle Monster, ADER Error, ENG, and RADD LOUNGE are pushing the boundaries further, ensuring fashion retail remains a cultural experience rather than just a transaction. As technology and consumer habits evolve, these pioneering brands remind us that physical spaces can still captivate, challenge, and inspire. More importantly, they create a bridge between the runway (or lookbook) and the customer, preserving the tactile and communal elements of fashion culture in an increasingly digital world.
